Change in the wine world is slow going.
For example, most wine snobs still prefer corks even though screw caps have been proven successful for over 50 years. Also, did you know we still value Bordeaux wine based on a 160-year-old ruling?
So, when the Rioja Consejo Regulador (wine commission) announced a new classification system in 2018, it was a big deal!
Rioja Wine Classification Changes
The classification system moved Rioja wines away from oak-aging as the primary indication of quality. Instead, wineries are encouraged to champion regional microclimates and singular vineyard sites.
For those in the know, the system has similarities to how they do things in Burgundy.
Quick Facts on Rioja Wine Rules
- Rioja can be labeled by its three official zones: Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa, and Rioja Oriental (aka Eastern Rioja – originally called Rioja Baja ).
- The Rioja aging classification still uses the same levels of generic, Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva, but there is also Gran Añada, which is for sparkling wine.
- Rioja wines can add the name of the village/municipality to the front label. That said, don’t try to memorize all the municipio names – there are 145 in Rioja!
- Rosé (aka “rosado“) wines can be made in any color. Previously, this wasn’t the case.
- There is a now a new sparkling wine designation called Espumosos de Calidad de Rioja (with similarities to Champagne!)
- Winemakers may now offer single-varietal white wines under the Rioja Blanco label.
Rioja Aging Classifications
Generic Rioja (aka “Joven”)
Generic Rioja wines do not have aging requirements. Expect these wines to use minimal oak-aging and have a fleshy style. In the past, this was Rioja’s lowest quality indication.
Today, however, we’re likely to see some exceptional wines (especially Rioja Blanco made with Viura) using this aging regime.
Crianza Rioja
Crianza (“kree-ahn-tha”) was formerly where quality started for Rioja wine. The increased aging allows Tempranillo-based wines to develop more complexity. Expect red fruit flavors and subtle spice.
- Red wines: Aged for a total of two years with at least one year in oak barrels.
- White and rosé wines: Aged for a total of two years with at least six months in barrels.
Reserva Rioja
Reserva is where things start to get serious with Rioja. This classification has and will continue to be the benchmark because it also includes sparkling wine, Espumosos de Calidad de Rioja.
Red wines in this classification typically have fantastic balance between fruit and structure (e.g. tannin and acidity), with subtle aged flavors of baking spice and dried fruit. This is one of those bottles you must try aging in a cellar to see how it evolves!
- Red wines: Aged for a total of three years with at least one year in oak barrels and at least six months in bottles.
- Sparkling wines: Wines must be aged “en tirage” (on the lees) for no less than 24 months. Vintage-dated espumosos must be hand-harvested.
- White and rosé wines: Aged for a total of two years with at least six months in barrels.
Gran Reserva Rioja
- Red wines: Aged for a total of five years with at least two years in oak barrels and two years in bottles.
- White and rosé wines: Aged for a total of five years with at least six months in barrels.
Gran Añada Rioja
What was once a bygone category has new life, thanks to the creation of Gran Añada bubbly!
By the numbers, these wines mimic the production methods and aging requirements of vintage Champagne.
- Sparkling: Wines must be aged “en tirage” (on the lees) for no less than 36 months. Vintage-dated espumosos must be hand-harvested.
New Regional Labeling for Rioja is Finally Here!
The addition of a regional labeling regime is by far the biggest change to Rioja wines in recent years.
If you travel through Rioja, you cannot deny that there are a myriad of soils and microclimates. Now that producers can officially notate a singular vineyard, excitement about the region among collectors has elevated.
Rioja
You can assume that all wines labeled “Rioja” are a blend of grapes from all over La Rioja.
Zonas (Zones)
The largest Zona is Rioja Oriental, followed by Rioja Alta, and then Rioja Alavesa. Most wine books will tell you that Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa make the best wines, but that’s not always true.
If you’re a fan of richer styles of Tempranillo, you’ll love a few producers in Rioja Oriental (for example, check out Ontañon and Barón de Ley). The issue with Rioja Oriental’s reputation is that a sizable proportion of its production is bulk wine.
Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa wines tend to be more mineral and elegant. Many of these wines are built to age 20 or more years.
Municipios (Municipalities)
Rioja can now label wines after the village or municipal area where they’re grown. If a vineyard straddles two municipalities, it can blend up to 15% of the neighboring village’s grapes into the wine.
One problem with this regulation is that there are so many, with standouts being difficult to identify (or remember!) In Rioja, there are 145 municipalities (77 in Rioja Alta, 50 in Rioja Oriental, and 18 in Rioja Alavesa.)
Viñedo Singular (Unique Vineyards)
Viñedo Singular reminds us of lieu-dits (named vineyard sites) of Burgundy. For this classification, the producer must appeal to the Consejo Regulador to recognize a vineyard and allow it to be listed on the label.
On one hand, Viñedo Singular is really cool because we learn the names of places where special vines are grown. With Viñedo Singular, wineries are encouraged to make single-vineyard wines (something that’s still relatively rare in Rioja).
On the other hand, if you know Burgundy, you know there are well over one thousand lieu-dits. Thousands of Viñedo Singular will make this region more complex and challenging to understand.
Rioja’s move towards site-specificity has inspired positive change in a slow-moving industry.